Milan fashion week menswear 2025: nostalgia meets climate reality

Designers at Milan Fashion Week sought solace in nostalgia amid global upheaval, unveiling menswear collections for Spring-Summer 2025 that harkened back to more carefree eras while acknowledging the challenges of today.

In a bid for escapism, many designers drew inspiration from decades past when the future seemed boundless, now juxtaposed against the stark realities of climate change and geopolitical tension. The result was a series of collections that blended retro charm with modern sensibilities, offering both a refuge from and a reflection of the turbulent times.

Dolce & Gabbana captured the essence of Italian summer elegance with loose silhouettes and artisanal weavings inspired by the country’s golden period of the 1950s. Models strutted down the runway in woven raffia jackets and tunics, paired with scalloped knitwear and pleated trousers, evoking a sense of leisure reminiscent of Marcello Mastroianni’s era. The collection’s color palette, featuring soothing tones of eggplant and forest green punctuated by bursts of coral, underscored its nostalgic appeal.

Meanwhile, Fendi’s menswear collection, helmed by artistic director Silvia Venturini Fendi, offered a kaleidoscopic journey through mixed plaids and geometric prints. Oversized shirts layered beneath lightweight bombers and Bermuda shorts updated classic styles, while inventive garment architectures introduced asymmetry and convertible sleeves. The soothing hues of khaki and lime were accented by pops of peach, creating a harmonious balance between bold patterns and monochrome elements.

Emporio Armani took a departure from urban life with a collection that celebrated freedom and independence. Models traversed a landscape of lavender fields and wheat expanses, clad in pleated trousers, nettops, and belted suit jackets in organic shades of sage and ochre. The show culminated in a dramatic display of bare-chested models carrying lavender sacks, a symbolic gesture of nature intertwined with fashion.

At MSGM, founder Massimo Giorgetti marked the brand’s 15th anniversary with a collection that radiated optimism. Bold stripes, daisy prints, and playful illustrations by Luke Edward Hall adorned youthful silhouettes, offering a vibrant contrast to the subdued palettes seen elsewhere. The collection’s exuberance was tempered with sophistication, blending youthful energy with refined tailoring.

As Milan Fashion Week unfolds against a backdrop of global uncertainty, these collections serve not only as a reflection of fashion trends but also as a cultural barometer. They offer a glimpse into how designers are navigating the complexities of the present while seeking inspiration from the past, a testament to fashion’s enduring ability to innovate and inspire in times of change.